K11RS Heated Grip Installation Notes
always, this is my experience and yours may differ.
Please use common sense
and if you feel this is beyond your capabilities please bring it to a shop.
Well, not only did I do the heated grip
install on my K75S, I just did it last weekend on my K1100RS. Here are some notes
to add to the directions that come with the kit.
to your tools:
- Rough Grit Sandpaper
- 3' length of string with something
(like a spare screw) to tie around one end using a figure-8 knot.
small, flat-head screwdriver like the one that comes with some toolkits
grease (use sparingly!)
(for cutting off grips, snipping zip-ties, etc.)
Kit Parts to check for:
- 2 grips with wires attached
screws (2 to anchor the left, the right depends on whether you have a 16 or 8-valve
- small white "lock block"
that the ends of the wires plug into
- pigtail with three connectors (one
for the switch, one for the lockblock holding the grip wires, and one either to
the power lead or to a second pigtail that goes from the first pigtail to the
- bunch of zip-ties
that the K11RS heated grip kit has a handlebar that does not have the nipple anchor
for the bar end weights found on the non-heated grip bar, just the regular empty
end. The kit comes with two anchors, one for each side, that fit into the bar
(#3 above) and serve as the anchor for the stock bar end weights
may disagree but this is what has worked for me on my K Bikes (twice ;-) The directions
are quite good, though I would add:
- Remove your seat and slide the tank
back, no need to remove it.
- Be careful
with the brake master cylinder, wrap it in a towel so it doesn't leak on the bike
- When you cut off the left grip, sand
down the bar so the grip assembly will slide right off.
feeding the wires through the bar, use the string with a screw attached (with
gravity's help) to feed from the center hole out to the bar end. Make sure you
remember to go through the grip assemblies first when pulling the wired back through
- When you cut zip-ties, leave
them in place to make sure you can replace with new ones in the correct place.
- The wire connections at the ends of
the grips are VERY fragile, when feeding the wires through the bars make SURE
not to pull too hard :)
- Do NOT cut
your finger with the leatherman (DOH!)
- The power lead is WELL HIDDEN under
the main harness running up the left hand (clutch) side of the frame. Make sure
you look for this little sucker, the lead is only about 1/2" long sprouting
from the harness, is often underneath the harness, and terminates in a 2-prong
- Use dielectric
grease on ALL connections
- Use the
little screwdriver to *slightly* ease open the ends of the 4 spade slides at the
end of the grip wires before inserting them into the block connector. If you don't,
they will just pop right out of the block when you try to plug it into the pigtail.
They might do this anyway, so you may have to use that little screwdriver to "push"
them back into the connected block and onto the spade connectors in the pigtail
- Make sure to feed the wiring
through the anchors as pictured above (Doh!)
- Make sure to re-zip tie everything
back into place - they give you a bunch to use, use 'em all ;-) Just make sure
they are not so tight as to chaff the wiring over time.
sure to hook back up the gas lines before flipping on the ignition to make sure
they are working properly (doh!)
WARM hands :))) Any questions, please let me know!